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Tech Tips & Questions What works and don't work with the mechanical workings of your cycles. |
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#16
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The problem is that I've heard of a number of people who've had their clutch cable break under 10K miles, and the service schedule doesn't call for re-lubricating the cables until the 10K service interval.
If the bushing at the lever end of the clutch doesn't slide around freely, then the cable is getting bent there, which is, I think, the primary cause of whatever breakage people are seeing. Chances are that most people don't have this problem, but you never see people posting "8500 miles, and my clutch cable hasn't broken yet". But for those who it does happen to, it certainly sucks. Thats why its a good idea to just pull it apart sooner, make sure its all working right, and re-lube it since you've already got it taken apart.
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Mike |
#17
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Aftermarket levers
Greg,
Your point is well taken, but for the record, I replaced my Stock Levers with Arlen Ness, after my cable broke the second time. One of the reasons I did was because of the wear I observed on the stock levers caused by poor lubrication previously. (the other reason is they are shiny Then started the PM I've been describing. Last edited by Rainmaker; 07-26-2007 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Added "Greg" to indicate reply to his message. |
#18
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Sparky should pin this...
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2007 2014 |
#19
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Go with Barnett cables and you'll never go back.
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#20
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I've had two Barnett cables snap on me as well as two or three OEM ones. The Barnett's snapped on the transmission end.
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2007 2014 |
#21
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Huh! My OEMs broke at the lower end too but the Bartlett cable outlasted both of them. I thought it was smoother and eased the squeeze a little more too.
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#22
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The original clutch cable on my 2011 Cross Country finally snapped at the transmission end at 55k miles (Thank-you Mark, for having the Sav-U-Ride along!!). If I get the same mileage out of another OE cable, I should be good for a little while. I am considering converting to hydraulic, tho.
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Happy Dan Spreading the sound of "Freedom", one Victory at a time! |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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i just ordered the hydraulic clutch for mine.
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#25
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Thanks
Thanks for the advice. I broke 2 cables in 2 years so this was much needed
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#26
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Thanks a ton!
A couple of years ago, based on the advice from folks here (on the forums and in person), I invested in a Sav-U-Ride kit. Glad did. Yesterday, on our way to Sommerset, I snapped my cable at the lever end. 15 minutes later and we were back on our way. Straight-up easy job, and it saved what turned out to be a fantastic day of riding.
Also, we checked out Oliphant Brewing in Sommerset- highly recommended. |
#27
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Sav-Ur-Ride
I don't know if I jinxed myself but...this spring I purchased a Sav-Ur-Ride and put the tools needed with it to make a complete kit. Yesterday I had to use it. I have almost 45,000 on the OEM 2005 Kingpin cable. It took about 15 minutes to replace and we were back up and on our way home. Not sure if I want to replace the cable or not. I am thinking I'll just use the Sav-Ur-Ride till it goes and then replace it with another Sav-Ur-Ride which will be back in the bag soon. Any thoughts?
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For those that have sacrificed for it, freedom has a meaning the protected will never know. |
#28
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There have been a few folks that have used it for longer periods of time, but I am not sure as to the duration.
It was meant to be a temporary fix, but as long as it doesn't present problems and yours doesn't break at the perch, you could try and push the envelope. |
#29
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My '05 snapped at 12,000.
Bought the Barnett and lightly filed down the sharp edges on the cable barrel at lever end and the lever slot (stock lever). I was under the impression that the Barnett clutch cables DO NOT get lubed due to the inner sleeve. I was told to lube the barrels with a light grease and that's it. Of course, people lie. |
#30
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Quote:
Greasing the pivot points and the barrels is always a good idea though. |
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