Clutch Cable Maintenance

[Rainmaker]

I have discovered the secret to clutch cable longevity. I broke 2 in about 7000 miles before I started doing the following maintenance procedures.
Weekly I check the tension on the lever. It should completely relax the tension when you release the handle. You only need 1/8 inch or less of play but it must relax to take the tension off the ferrels at both ends of the cable.Keep in mind, thatthe cable tightens over time, so you'll need to loosen it occasionally.
Every 1000 miles or so, I completey loosen the cable and remove clutch lever so I can remove the ferrel from the clutch handle. I clean and lube all the parts with, VERY IMPORTANT, Black Moly grease. It gives you the least friction and smoothest action. It is very important is that the ferrel rotates as the handle is engaged and disengaged. General Lube does not work as well, you will notice the difference in how smooth it is, I gaurantee it.
Inspect the cable right at the ferrel, if there are any strands borken it indicates that the ferrel isn't rotating so the wires are fatigueing.
Do the same at the other end too.
I haven't broken a cable in more than 11K now.

[sid2002]

Rob I may need you to show me the tightening and lossening tecniques next time we are together thanks for the advice.

[Rainmaker]

Sure, I'd be glad to demonstrate. But it's simple. With the bars straight I loosen the jam nut and back the long hex sided adjuster all enough to get some play in the lever. You can watch the lever move if it's loose or you may have to go squeeze it to see if you are loosening.
To set the right slack I pull the lever back and it kind of stays there, then turn the adjuster and watch the lever move away from me until it stops. then back up so there is some slack. The Manual specifies the play is correct when you measure .010" to .030 inches measured between the lever and the lever housing (the thing that stops it). I just make sure there is a little play (don't get hung up about measurements).
To do the lube job, just back that adjuster all the way off and then remove the pivot pin nut and pull the pin out, then you can remove the bushing ang disconnect the cable.
I can't stress enough you have to use Moly grease. I got some stuff at Checker Auto parts, it's called Engine Assembly Lube (with Moly Graphite). Take the ferrel off (some call it a bushing) the thing the cable connects to anyway. This is the end of the cable you want to look for problems. Wipe everything with a clean rag.then grease her up good and reassemble. You'll feel the difference!

[Schamby]

Do you lube the cable itself? Do these cables only break on the ends?

[Rainmaker]

The cable should be lubed too. This helps prrvent binding and wear on the plastic coating that covers the cable itself. I usually put a few drops of oil in each time.
My sources say 100% synthetic engine oil works best and they fasion a funnel out of a plastic bag to aid it getting the oil in. I haven't done this method, because it only takes a few drops and it starts coming out the bottom in just a few minutes.

There is no reason for a clutch cable to break anywhere else except at the ends. As I said earlier, what happens is if the barrel doesn't rotate the cable gets bent back and forth and fatigues the wires and they break. Just like a paper clip bent back and forth a few times.

Another point I should make. If you haven't been lubricating the lever parts. The barrel wears down and becomes smaller, then wears a narrow notch in the lever. After you replace the cable and put in a new barrel, it might not rotate smoothly even with good moly grease. You may want to consider replacing the lever itself.

[DEZ]

Originally Posted by Rainmaker

To do the lube job, just back that adjuster all the way off and then remove the pivot pin nut and pull the pin out, then you can remove the bushing ang disconnect the cable.

BTW, you can also just use a vice-grip or channel-lock pliers (and a shop cloth) to rotate the clutch arm at the back of the primary and unhook the cable to get the slack you need, instead of backing the adjuster all the way off. Just another way to skin the cat.

[Johnny Ritz]

Is there a name for the Black Moly Grease?
Or is that the name of it?
Where do you get it?

[Rainmaker]

I had a little trouble finding it in a small tube.
I got some stuff at Checker Auto parts, it's called "Engine Assembly Lube" (with Moly Graphite).

You can find more information by googling Molybdenum Disulfide. It is an additive to the general purpose Lithium Grease and is especially good under load.

[sid2002]

Got my cable installed and lubed with MollyGraph. I used a toothpic to put the grease in the whole then inserted the roller in the lever and of coarse it fell out as I was inserting into the bar. I caught it but you can imagine how my hands looked after that. You might want to wear rubber gloves during this process, or maybe just don't be in hurry. I think my tube of molly should last me about one hundred years at this rate. Or maybe I could start a clutch lubing business on the side. Thanks for the info Rob it works great.

[Rainmaker]

I can't quite visualize where you used a tooth pick. Although I understand about the lifetime supply of grease, I use more than a toothpick full to grease the barrel shaped ferrel on the end on the cable, and pivot pin and bushing.

Once I take the lever off I pull the little barrel (13) off the end of the cable and cover it with grease. Then put it back on to the cable. Then put the cable and barrel on to the lever, then lever back into position, slide the (greased)pivot bushing (5) and Greased pivot pin (4) into the bracket and carefully tighten the nut (7) on the Pivot pin.

Then wipe everything down and adjust the play inthe cable.

Does that make sense now that you've done it?

See attached drawing.

[Obe-1]

rainmaker,
Good advise, I have been through 2 cables in the last year and a half so the minute you posted this i drove up to my friendly Checker auto and bought me some molly lub and did a little P.M. Everything looked fine on my bike. As far as the correct amount of free play though everyone should be aware that to much free play and the clutch saftey switch will be inactive