Twin Cities Victory Riders  

Go Back   Twin Cities Victory Riders > TCVR Main Forums > Tech Tips & Questions

Tech Tips & Questions What works and don't work with the mechanical workings of your cycles.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-22-2007, 11:25 AM
Rainmaker Rainmaker is offline
Rob (MN)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Eden Prairie
Posts: 407
Clutch Cable Maintenance

I have discovered the secret to clutch cable longevity. I broke 2 in about 7000 miles before I started doing the following maintenance procedures.
Weekly I check the tension on the lever. It should completely relax the tension when you release the handle. You only need 1/8 inch or less of play but it must relax to take the tension off the ferrels at both ends of the cable.Keep in mind, thatthe cable tightens over time, so you'll need to loosen it occasionally.
Every 1000 miles or so, I completey loosen the cable and remove clutch lever so I can remove the ferrel from the clutch handle. I clean and lube all the parts with, VERY IMPORTANT, Black Moly grease. It gives you the least friction and smoothest action. It is very important is that the ferrel rotates as the handle is engaged and disengaged. General Lube does not work as well, you will notice the difference in how smooth it is, I gaurantee it.
Inspect the cable right at the ferrel, if there are any strands borken it indicates that the ferrel isn't rotating so the wires are fatigueing.
Do the same at the other end too.
I haven't broken a cable in more than 11K now.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-22-2007, 06:47 PM
sid2002 sid2002 is offline
Sid (moved 2007 from MN)
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 390 Terrace Ct Buellton California 93427
Posts: 990
Rob I may need you to show me the tightening and lossening tecniques next time we are together thanks for the advice.
__________________
Sid
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-22-2007, 07:52 PM
Rainmaker Rainmaker is offline
Rob (MN)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Eden Prairie
Posts: 407
Sure, I'd be glad to demonstrate. But it's simple. With the bars straight I loosen the jam nut and back the long hex sided adjuster all enough to get some play in the lever. You can watch the lever move if it's loose or you may have to go squeeze it to see if you are loosening.
To set the right slack I pull the lever back and it kind of stays there, then turn the adjuster and watch the lever move away from me until it stops. then back up so there is some slack. The Manual specifies the play is correct when you measure .010" to .030 inches measured between the lever and the lever housing (the thing that stops it). I just make sure there is a little play (don't get hung up about measurements).
To do the lube job, just back that adjuster all the way off and then remove the pivot pin nut and pull the pin out, then you can remove the bushing ang disconnect the cable.
I can't stress enough you have to use Moly grease. I got some stuff at Checker Auto parts, it's called Engine Assembly Lube (with Moly Graphite). Take the ferrel off (some call it a bushing) the thing the cable connects to anyway. This is the end of the cable you want to look for problems. Wipe everything with a clean rag.then grease her up good and reassemble. You'll feel the difference!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-22-2007, 08:23 PM
Schamby Schamby is offline
Paul
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 1,771
Do you lube the cable itself? Do these cables only break on the ends?
__________________
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-23-2007, 08:55 AM
Rainmaker Rainmaker is offline
Rob (MN)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Eden Prairie
Posts: 407
The cable should be lubed too. This helps prrvent binding and wear on the plastic coating that covers the cable itself. I usually put a few drops of oil in each time.
My sources say 100% synthetic engine oil works best and they fasion a funnel out of a plastic bag to aid it getting the oil in. I haven't done this method, because it only takes a few drops and it starts coming out the bottom in just a few minutes.

There is no reason for a clutch cable to break anywhere else except at the ends. As I said earlier, what happens is if the barrel doesn't rotate the cable gets bent back and forth and fatigues the wires and they break. Just like a paper clip bent back and forth a few times.

Another point I should make. If you haven't been lubricating the lever parts. The barrel wears down and becomes smaller, then wears a narrow notch in the lever. After you replace the cable and put in a new barrel, it might not rotate smoothly even with good moly grease. You may want to consider replacing the lever itself.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-23-2007, 09:33 AM
DEZ DEZ is offline
Mike (formerly MikeD)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Big Lake (Orrock), MN
Posts: 553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker View Post
To do the lube job, just back that adjuster all the way off and then remove the pivot pin nut and pull the pin out, then you can remove the bushing ang disconnect the cable.
BTW, you can also just use a vice-grip or channel-lock pliers (and a shop cloth) to rotate the clutch arm at the back of the primary and unhook the cable to get the slack you need, instead of backing the adjuster all the way off. Just another way to skin the cat.
__________________
Mike
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-23-2007, 10:40 AM
Johnny Ritz Johnny Ritz is offline
John
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Mendota Heights, MN
Posts: 4,142
Is there a name for the Black Moly Grease?
Or is that the name of it?
Where do you get it?
__________________
"Get Busy Livin', or Get Busy Dying'"

Johnny Ritz & #434
VMC #59

John Ritter, the one still living.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-23-2007, 11:43 AM
Rainmaker Rainmaker is offline
Rob (MN)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Eden Prairie
Posts: 407
I had a little trouble finding it in a small tube.
I got some stuff at Checker Auto parts, it's called "Engine Assembly Lube" (with Moly Graphite).

You can find more information by googling Molybdenum Disulfide. It is an additive to the general purpose Lithium Grease and is especially good under load.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-23-2007, 10:13 PM
sid2002 sid2002 is offline
Sid (moved 2007 from MN)
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 390 Terrace Ct Buellton California 93427
Posts: 990
Got my cable installed and lubed with MollyGraph. I used a toothpic to put the grease in the whole then inserted the roller in the lever and of coarse it fell out as I was inserting into the bar. I caught it but you can imagine how my hands looked after that. You might want to wear rubber gloves during this process, or maybe just don't be in hurry. I think my tube of molly should last me about one hundred years at this rate. Or maybe I could start a clutch lubing business on the side. Thanks for the info Rob it works great.
__________________
Sid
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-24-2007, 08:24 AM
Rainmaker Rainmaker is offline
Rob (MN)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Eden Prairie
Posts: 407
Next Time I do this I'll submit pictures

I can't quite visualize where you used a tooth pick. Although I understand about the lifetime supply of grease, I use more than a toothpick full to grease the barrel shaped ferrel on the end on the cable, and pivot pin and bushing.

Once I take the lever off I pull the little barrel (13) off the end of the cable and cover it with grease. Then put it back on to the cable. Then put the cable and barrel on to the lever, then lever back into position, slide the (greased)pivot bushing (5) and Greased pivot pin (4) into the bracket and carefully tighten the nut (7) on the Pivot pin.

Then wipe everything down and adjust the play inthe cable.

Does that make sense now that you've done it?

See attached drawing.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CltchLeverAssembly.pdf (60.0 KB, 1045 views)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-24-2007, 03:25 PM
Obe-1 Obe-1 is offline
Mark (MN)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Apple Valley Mn.
Posts: 440
rainmaker,
Good advise, I have been through 2 cables in the last year and a half so the minute you posted this i drove up to my friendly Checker auto and bought me some molly lub and did a little P.M. Everything looked fine on my bike. As far as the correct amount of free play though everyone should be aware that to much free play and the clutch saftey switch will be inactive
__________________
Obe - 1 (Mark O)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is On
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Site Content Copyright © 2000 - 2010
Twin Cities Victory Riders
All Rights Reserved