TPS Question

[tom2000]

There use to be a sight that showed how to put the tps in a learning mode. Does anyone know were this is at? I have not been able to find it again. I'm thinking it was on chillins sight, but I can't find it anymore. Memory is going. Steve I know you set your own tps. I don't care to by special tools if I don't have to.

Thanks Tom

[Swiffer]

you got the pins right. The steps:

Make
1: turn the ignition off
2: throttle/cable not sticking (totally disengaged)
3: cold idle lever not engaged
3a: remove headlamp relay (on the fuse box)
4: turn the engine stop switch to run
5: jumper B & E
6: turn the key to the run position
7: start the bike
8: ensure engine temp is between 194-212F (90-100C)
9: wait 60 seconds at 900 RPM (the engine needs to turn over 900+ revolutions. the initial start puts the system in a rich mode. You can wait longer for this step to make sure.
10: add just the TPS (idle) screw in 1/16 increments or less. You must wait at least 5 seconds between adjustments of the screw.

A real accuate Tach will help. The one on the instrument panel is almost worthless.

prior to above
a) Battery Voltage must be above 12.5 volts
b) Fuel Pressure should be maintained at 55 psi
c) Make sure you don't have any air leaks on the throttle body and associated tubing.
d) Make sure secondary coil connections are tight.
e) make sure tank pre-fuel filters are clean and the regular
fuel filter is clean.

1) Mixture is too rich
o Fouls spark plugs
o Black, sooty exhaust gasses
o Doesn't run well
o Fuel mileage down
o muffler discoloration

2) Mixture is too lean
o backfires excessively
o hard starting
o runs rough
o transmissions sounds are magnified
o misses
o engine dies
o muffler discoloration

Tom, this should help you out...I copied it from Chillin's site. It really does not take much to make a big difference. When your looking at the screw, clockwise will lean it out and counter clockwise will richen it. One thing I've found is the idle will go up some when you lean her out a bit, so it's a good idea to lower your idle speed first thing. On mine I know I'm too rich when the engine stumbles when I first hit the throttle, and I pop on decel. I just go 1/32" to 1/16" turns leaner 'till the popping and stumbling go away. It takes a few rides and a few adjustments, but you can really get it dialed in this way. Be carefull not to go too lean though! Don't want to burn any holes in those big ol' pistons!! Oh, one other thing...you can use the fast idle lever to bring your idle back up to 950+/- after you've made adjustments instead of having to repeat the WHOLE process each adjustment.

Steve

PS...any word on your tranny yet?

[Sparky_Bill]

Originally posted by sfwehrs

PS...any word on your tranny yet?

Heard that they found the front pulley with bolt or nut missing. That they will not get to it till next week since tom has been gone all week and they had this Bike Fest coming to and being short handed. Heard no guess but Tom here might well of.

[Choirguy]

Originally posted by Sparky_Bill


Heard that they found the front pulley with bolt or nut missing.

Thats exactly what happened to my bike in Alaska, roughly 100 miles south of TOK. When that front nut loosens (and it's not supposed to, with a retaining plate), it's only a matter of time before the teeth on the interior of the sprocket wear off. It's not a complicated repair, just a pain in the rear. The sprocket is made of a much softer matieral (aluminum?) than the drive shaft, so all the damage happens to the sprocket, and is thus replaceable. I'm glad Polaris designed it that way, but it would have been better if it had NOT happened. That occured around 15,500 miles, which means that I'm going to get nervous about it happening again real soon.

[Swiffer]

Get red loc-tite and tighten that sucker down to 100 ftlb. I think I actually went like 110-120. So far, so good(fingers crossed)

Steve

[Big-Foot]

Originally posted by Tubamotorcycle


The sprocket is made of a much softer matieral (aluminum?) than the drive shaft, so all the damage happens to the sprocket, and is thus replaceable. I'm glad Polaris designed it that way, but it would have been better if it had NOT happened. That occured around 15,500 miles, which means that I'm going to get nervous about it happening again real soon.

Tuba - the front pulley on my 99 is made out of forged nodular iron. You are correct in that the pulley is softer than the jack-shaft which is steel.

I re-torqued the nut on BigFoot to close to 200 ft lbs. No LocTite as it's not necessary with the "Nut-Keeper" that is holding the nut from backing off. I did have to file the holes that the two nut-keeper bolts go through (just a little) to make sure the nut-keeper would line up and hold tension on the nut.

[v92sc_065]

Other then the tranny slipp'n out of gear, is there any other symptoms, noises, prior to the tranny going south?

I have noiced latly that there is a clickity-clackity sound when I first start up and it gets louder if I lead to the right. The sound stops after I put her in gear and all toghther after she is warm.

Any thoughts?

[sks700]

Mine was also doing that rattleing noise when leaned to the right. i"m not sure what was producing the noise, but it is part of what helped my get the tranny swap.

Lee

[Swiffer]

Dan, you may want to e-mail Buddahead out there in San Francisco...I recall him mentioning something about a sound like that on his '99 before the tranny went out on him. I'm starting to get pretty jealous of all you getting tranny's:) , with my luck mine will last forever(guess that's not all bad).

Steve "Swiffer"